I finally feel like a tourist
After being here for nearly 2 months, I’ve finally done something touristy! We headed up to Gheralta to go for a walk up into the hills and to visit a couple of the churches. Gheralta is about a 2 hour drive from Mekelle and a tricky to get to on public transport, so we went in a Red Cross 4×4 which explains the ‘no weapons’ sticker in the window.
The walk up to the churches was really fantastic, very steep uphill all the way – followed all the way by about 20 kids (only one was our actual guide). At the top we attempted to negotiate getting into the churches, but there was some (deliberate?) confusion about the key which they wanted extra money for. The official Tigray Tourist Commision price is 50 birr per ticket, at first the priest wanted to charge extra for the key, which we then refused, and suddenly no-one knew where the key was (it was hanging around the priests neck… hmmm…). Anyway we had a look at the entrances to both Maryam Korkor and Daniel Korkor. The hobbit-sized entrance to Daniel Korkor is around the other side of the mountain, along a ledge with a 500m drop to one side.
The ledge around to the entrance:
Church door (Although I may be wearing the same clothes I’m wearing in the other photos I’ve posted up – I can assure you that they have been washed):
The view down – if you look very closely you may be able to see the white speck that’s our 4×4 – about 1/3 of the way from left side of photo and just below the road:
Was a shame that we didn’t get into the church, but think it can often be a bit hit and miss as to whether they allow you in or not. Having a Tigrinya speaking guide (not just a 10 year old), probably would have significantly increased our chances – although still not guaranteed if the priest has decided he’s had enough for the day.
Lunch was at the nearby Gheralta Lodge, which, at 70 birr (about 7 USD) for 4 course set menu with a couple of beers, has been the most expensive meal I’ve had in Ethiopia so far.
On the way back we stopped at another rock church (this time one just off the main road, so no long uphill walk), which we were actually allowed to get into, and they didn’t try overcharging either.
It was great to finally get to look inside one of the rock churches and see the sights tourists come to Ethiopia for! This weekend I’m heading over to Axum, a historical town about 7 hours bus trip away from Mekelle, also allegedly home to the arc of the covenant (though only one priest is ever allowed to see it)- so should have some more good pics to post up early next week 
